The Thai Captain Jack Sparrow

Uncle John's Restaurant has become one of our favorite hangout spots because everything else in this tiny town closes around 6pm. It is even named in the Lonely Planet Guide to Thailand. The walls are reddish orange in the dim light, which faintly illuminates two huge terrariums. Water trickles down from the ceiling on a glass panel and continues in a stream running under the bamboos in the darker corners. The waiter serves Spicy Squid Salad with a rainbow-colored parrot on his shoulder.

While we were drinking Singha and eating cracknuts, a motorcycle thrusted straight into the restaurant. The driver, in a black leather jacket and a dusty helmet, brought the bike to an abrupt stop. The waiting staff made way for him to drive through and park right next to the bar. We all turned around and looked, "Who does he think he is? Does he think he own this place?"

He does actually own this place. It was Uncle John himself! A firm handshake and he sat down to have a beer with us. Instantly there's something intriguing about him. He was about mid-40s, born in Bangkok, spent 18 years in London. Upon return to Thailand 8 years ago, he opened this restaurant that serves select western food and plays Madonna on big plasma TV from 8am to 12am. Two ivory beads on a bronze chain dangled from his neck, occasionally beating against his open white linen shirt. Dark amber stones encircling his wrists made clicking noises as he gestured enthusiastically with his hands. This man, lean, dark and slightly hunched, talked about smuggling goods across the Thai-Burma border, but also collecting donation to help children. He’s like Captain Jack Sparrow, real life Thai version.